Category: On the Job

The ugly truth is…I don’t enjoy fresh tomatoes.  Yes, I’m “one of those people.” Like Dr. Seus;  I do not like them in a plane, or on a boat, I do not like them with a goat. Ketchup, gravy and salsa are all on the cool list. But if the salsa tastes all raw tomatoey, then no.   I am not special, and there are many like me. We lurk in the shadows, making small piles of unwanted fruit/vegetable on the side of a plate.  Our blood runs cold when we forget to hold the tomatoes on a burger or sandwich; we know the taste will spread like wildfire and engulf everything it comes in contact with. This is our plight.

Let me be clear; I can somewhat enjoy a tomato if  two things happen. The tomato is grown well with all needed nutrients. Like the volcanic soil of Greece for instance. Or, I have to brainwash myself.   Telling myself before, during, and after mastication that. “I have never tasted this exotic fruit/vegetable before, this is a new adventure, and it WILL be delicious.”  I developed this routine in Greece on my honeymoon. Knowing that if I was to enjoy a tomato, Greece, with its volcanic soil would probably be the place.  So I sacked up, stopped being a wuss and started acting like I enjoyed them. It worked :-)  

I thought I had read the science behind this but apparently not, my interwebz research came up empty. What was surprising during the research was the lack of the question.  All matters of science were discussing the nutritional change a tomato goes through when heated but nothing about the taste difference.  What is there, or not there, after they’re cooked? 

Lycopene and glutamate levels are higher in cooked tomatoes and lycopenes molecular shape changes to something more absorbable.  Maybe that changes the taste as well?  I tend to think glutamate https://www.joshsfood.com/fun-with-amino-acids/lays a major roll as well. There is a vast difference between a salted and unsalted bite of tomato.  The salt I think adds a missing link to the glutamate which then gives the taster a savory full-bodied flavor.  Like it’s sweating msg.

I realize this piece is 10 years late but…meh, better late than never sometimes. Making kale awesome, is easy.

Three ideas

One: Throw it into soup; (any type strain). Cook it until the pretty color goes away. Most green veggies are great when not cooked to death, but not kale and collards. Cooking them fully allows them to relax and absorb the soup. So remember to cook out the stubborn bitterness and it’ll be great

Two:  Chips; (Lacinato/Dinosaur) Brush lightly with good olive oil, season with salt and spice.  Bake at 350 for 17ish minutes rotating halfway through.

Three: Salad. (Curly or Red Russian) To me…a maligned dish done improperly 90% of the time.  I always see it treated like lettuce and it’s sad because you only need one extra step to make it totally awesome.  Some of you have no idea about this step and think kale salads are fine as is.  Come with me child…into the light.

A good massage is always nice

Kale needs to be tenderized and broken down, which also helps it absorb/hold onto the dressing.  Tear kale from the ribs into a bowl, add a little vinaigrette; work it into the kale using a squeezing motion like you’re working cold butter into flour, or playing in mud. You remember; squeezing it as it gushed through your fingers. You don’t need delicacy in this step. I usually squeeze for a couple minutes, let sit for 10 minutes and massage again. At that point I add more vinaigrette and the remaining ingredients.  If you wanna get crazy or you have thicker kale, squeeze out as much liquid as possible before giving it the extra dressing and ingredients. 

Anything you would put in a normal salad will work, but crunch is always nice addition since the kale doesn’t give it to you like lettuce does.  Kale is a wonderful flavor foil but I’m from California, so I always add fruits and nuts. Giggity.

Cock-a-doodle no more. As last year wrapped up, I had the chance (with help and guidance from a friend,) to slaughter and butcher my own chickens.  Well almost, they weren’t chickens, they were roosters.

I plan on not using factory farmed meat for home and work this year.  We’ll set up a freezer to fill with locally raised meat in an effort to continue our own  protest of our countries food structure.  Without the time or inclination to spend my mental and physical energy toward protests and politics.  Putting my money where my mouth is is all I can do. Getting us back to basics in terms of food production is empirical for our happiness as a people and planet.  Until Organic is the norm and not the exception, there is work to be done.

Observations:
Found out what a craw is and does. It’s a pre-stomach digester.
Poultry have a scent gland on the end of the tail that is always removed.
Rooster testicles are located up in the middle of the body; and taste delicious…just kidding.
Poultry skin lets go of the feathers in specifically 150 degree water.
Roosters are built tough. Everything on them is strong and tough.
Hanging them upside down settles the bird.
They have reptilian feet.

An entire family of vegetarians for a multicourse dinner? No problem, vegetarian loveliness is always available on my menus.

The Menu

Truffle herb “popcorn”

Pickled baby turnip with avocado “salad”

Beet stuffed with tangerine scented macadamia and topped with Korean chile p

Blue cheese and chive bread pudding stuffed mushroom

Flowering kale salad with apple, turnip, citrus, nuts and parsnip soubise

Sugar bear pumpkin soup with smokey collard greens, sumac and dill

Balls- Tiny Brussels sprouts, tiny potatoes and capers

Chile garlic broccolini with miso pearled barley risotto

Blackberry cobbler with guava crust, vanilla cream and fuyu coulis

I cooked for a vegetarian family the week after Christmas at a big ol’ rental up in the Escondido hills. This beautiful family was celebrating the patriarchs 70th birthday and they brought me in to get crazy for a night. The party was lively, the food brought the moans, and I even got the approval of the mom.

Not that moms usually dislike me. But, when she’s hard to please because she is the resident badass chef. It feels good making her smile.  As per usual, the menu is based on what is found at the market that day.  In this case, it was the Hillcrest Farmers market.  Happy New Year!

Ever sang the Peanut Butter and Jelly song with a group of kids at your local library’s toddler story time?  It’s adorable.  You know what’s more fun then going to toddler story time? Drinking beer.  Seriously…try it for yourself and compare.

I did a party before Thanksgiving;  before the party the host and I were chatting about this and that when the conversation turned to beer.  He mentioned a concoction that I had never heard of, but for the life of me, I don’t see how that was possible.  It’s such a stupid easy idea, that it made me realize I have a long way to go as far as human development and the usage of my obviously feeble brain.  For two years or so, I’ve known about Peanut Butter Stout.  A popular and wonderfully balanced stout from San Diego’s own, Belching Beaver Brewery in Vista; with a tasting room in North Park.

The Drink

The host of the party asked me if I had ever had a PB&J beer.  An eyebrow raising “noooooooo?” was my reply.  I figured I knew the peanut butter side of it and was right.  Out comes a bottle of peanut butter stout, (the peanut butter).  Then for the jelly, he used a Belgium Kriek Lambic (cherry beer), from Brouwerij Lindemans.  I’m sure there are other beers for the jelly, like raspberry or whatever, but this one seemed like the best of what was available.  Somewhere around a 60-40/70-30 ratio of stout to lambic seems like the money spot.  

Although not a beer you can drink all night long, this combination is all things delicious, interesting and fun.  It brought a smile to my face and it was sweet without being overly sugary. Just a wonderful and different holiday libation.  When it was served at Thanksgiving, everyone was underwhelmed, but that was my fault. Serving them right outta the fridge was an error that masked the flavors.  This drink should be room temp on a cool day.  When cold, the flavors are muted and it just tastes sweet, fizzy and confusing.

Halloween kid treats for a cooking class was a hoot. I was able to bring my older son and his friend to a very involved cooking class. 15 little groms is a lot of action, especially with this many items to cook.

Oooooooo, I’m gettin’ pumped.  This is a Halloween house.  Not only do we love the night of, but we also have a fun time with it all month.  My neighbor and I spend the entire day decorating. Which is tiring, but totally worth it and mostly fun.  Not only do the kids eyes light up once we’re done, but so do the adults.  Recently I did a cooking class for Halloween kid treats. Turned out adorable and a good time was had by all.  FYI…kids classes are exponentially harder than adult classes.  About 45 minutes into class when the sugar kicks in…oh man, look out Sally. Luckily my two kids were a great example to all and stayed on task. Teaching a cooking class as just a demo is much easier than a hands-on situation. 

We Made:
Green slime
Green slime coated popcorn
Banana ghosts
Cutie pumpkins
Halloween Oreo Stuffed chocolate cupcakes
Caramel apples
Witches’ fingers                                                                                                                                                    Zombie Twice baked potato mummies

Now, you might be thinking, “Josh, you’re so creative, I love your wonderful Halloween kid treat ideas. I wish I was that creative.” To that I say, worry not mon frere. For I harnessed the incredible powers of the all mighty google to help me in my search for fun and tasty Halloween treats.

Recently, I’ve had several people talk to me about bone broth. To be honest, I find it slightly irksome…maybe barely irritating. I get ruffled by trends because I don’t appreciate their twits for marketing purposes. For generations, bone broth has been known simply as broth, or stock. I guess the addition of the word “bone,” gives it a primal sound that demands a second look.  Nobody ever turned their heads at stock, or chicken broth.  Show your grandma a bone broth recipe and she’ll say:  “What?  You mean soup?”

Whether it be soup, broth or stock; I’m glad people are interested in making it themselves. It’s a small extra step to making food healthier and more delicious.

Shorthand stock recipes

Chicken Broth…the short, short version.
Begin by roasting a chicken for dinner or buy a roasted chicken. Eat the meat, then place the bones in crock pot and cover with water buy 2 inches. Turn crock pot on low. Go to bed. Wake up. Strain off bones. Cool, and refrigerate or freeze.

White Chicken Broth– Place a clean, raw yard bird in a large pot. Cover with water by 2 inches. Bring to a full rolling boil. Spoon away any foam that rises to the top. Next, cover and turn off the heat and wait an hour. Remove the bird and let it cool a bit, then pull off the meat and return the bones to water. Simmer for 3 more hours, then strain, cool and refrigerate or freeze.

Beef, Veal, Pork or Lamb Broth-
Place 2lbs of bones in a roasting pan. Roast for 45 minutes in a 425° oven or, until very browned. Make sure to turn a couple times to obtain even browning. Everything else is the same as the roast chicken broth. However, you want to go for another couple hours on the simmer.

Extra info

Fish Broth-
1lb white fleshed fish, head and bones. Cover with water or white wine buy 3 inches. Bring to a boil. Turn down to a simmer for 17 minutes. Strain and cool.

To Any Broth:
You can add a multitude of flavors to add depth. Here are the Western European classics:
1/2 – 1 onion
1 carrot
1 rib celery
salt
pinch pepper
1 large sprig thyme
1 small bay leaf
small bunch parsley stems

Asian broth tends to roll with different aromatics like, ginger, green onion, garlic, star anise, soy sauce, bonito, kombu. Different but the same idea.

Cooling and storing a large batch of broth efficiently, is usually the hardest part of broth making. Ice baths are best but are still a bit clunky.

Here is a picture of some trotters I breakfasted up the other day.  Feet are always a great broth additive.  They give flavor of course, but are really appreciated for adding collagen and gelatin, which adds richness and viscosity.  

This crazy summer was jam packed with work and fun.  No surprise there, since I haven’t posted anything since June :-|  But man…if I wasn’t working, I, was, runnin’!  Mostly for fun though.

My kids are coming of age to free up family adventurism; and boy did we get after it this crazy summer.  With all the go, go, go; I was feeling a bit flat creatively, so I gave myself a switch up.  Rolled over to Iowa Meats and rummaged through the freezer section that’s stocked with rare and interesting meats.  Came away with some lamb loin (not that rare, I know), along with some Elk and frog legs.  This summer had a lot of firsts, so, I thought it fitting to get after the frog legs.  Only cooked ’em once about 15 years ago.  Next time will be much sooner as they are quite yummy. If you’ve never had the pleasure, it’s mostly a tender, skinless chicken wing. With just a hint of pond or lake, but not enough to be off putting.

Some of these pictures are from a different party, but I’m sure you don’t mind. Pics is pics, amiright? Look at Instagram, or rather I should say, can you stop looking at Instagram? No is the answer.

I use the term foraging very loosely here. But foraging mt. Helix was a great way to start the day and a great party. 

A few weeks ago I cooked a lovely dinner party in Mission Bay for a ladies getaway weekend.  We had adventured up to Mount Helix that morning to play around. As we were exploring, we came across a lush patch of mustard flowers.  As discovered on one of our nature hikes on Dictionary Hill, mustard flowers have a taste more like cabbage/broccoli then mustard.  That instantly became the impetus for a dish.

What dish?

 I didn’t know…but I knew I’d use them to accentuate a random brassica driven dish.  So… while at the market later in the day, I came across illegally cute, Smurf size brussels sprouts.  I decided to go with a variation of a salad I did a year or two ago. One that was based on heavily marinated brussels sprouts and grilled mushrooms. The salad was soaked with a truffle vinaigrette along with fresh herbs and other points of interest.

Whether you are picking chrysanthemums, mustard flowers or lavender. Or whether you are foraging Mt. Helix or Jamul. Make sure the product is away for the world or chest high. Dogs and whatever urinate on everything they can reach.

I’m gonna get a little weird, but if done properly, a little weird in a culinary experience is just what the doctor ordered. Relax, because yes, this works.

Avocado mashed potatoes are coming to a fish dish near you…if I’m cooking.

A healthy and perfectly balanced little side dish that I’ve been enjoying at my diner parties of late.  The recipe forces itself into simplicity. If you get cute or fussy with it, the balance gets thrown into the bad side of weird.

Recipe

Peel, cut and boil potatoes. Mash with kosher salt, a little butter and a scant 1/3 the amount of avocado…preferably Fuerte.  That’s it. There is no lemon juice, so make it à la minute. 

Anything more, other than a few chives, takes away the purpose of the mixture; which is an avocado tasting mashed potato.  Also note the room temperature potatoes.  Hot avocado isn’t something I love, and it causes a loss of vibrancy when overheated.   Avocado can easily become something very expected and normal once you start adding ingredients.  Using it as the mashed potato fat with no other flavors allows the avocado to come through the perfectly textured potato.  Any more avocado and you get too close to guacamole as is the addition of lemon, garlic or chile.

This is achiote grilled halibut/avocado mash/baby lotus chimichurri 

This dish is mind-blowingly delicious. Perfectly balanced with acid, char, sweetness, earth and texture. Shocking that I’ve only repeated it once or twice over the years. Achiote marinated halibut came from a teacher during cooking school.