Bring It

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Ahhh, another day and another little adventure.  With “little” being the operative word, I was assigned the task of cooking a multi-course birthday dinner for four lovely ladies… in the kitchen you see above.

This picture shows a kitchen in a bungalow at Crystal Pier in Pacific Beach.  I was pretty excited to go; being a native, I’ve always passed by those little shacks but never actually went into one.  They’re cute and cozy but still full of energy since the pier is open to the public and the waves are heard around you.  This ill- equipped kitchen saw this impressive menu:

Roasted grapes with fresh ricotta and French bread with oregano and thyme
Asian glazed chicken wings

Salmon/corn soup/salted avocado/citrus supreme salsa
Raw salad: Shaved and pickled beets, cucumber, shallots/julienned kohlrabi, fuji apple, pistachios, herbs
Whey poached chicken breast/peeled blanched celery/smothered with sour cream dumplings, fava beans, caramelized sweet onion
Chile seared yellow fin/garlic butter sautéed fresh artichoke hearts/capers and red walnuts
Mint syrup/strawberries/mascarpone/fresh sweet butter biscuit

Even though the food was delicious, fresh and fun; the party was great because the people were great.  That’s why cooking privately rad.

In addition, there was little table to use as well…

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For Those Who Serve

For the record, I support the Military.  Not only do I respect and appreciate what they do, but my brother proudly serves in the USAF.  

Romance is needed

Recently I cooked dinners for two wonderful military couple anniversaries. In addition to a first anniversary dinner, there was an equally important fifth anniversary/belated honeymoon. Myself being married with children, I get fired up when parents get away for a couple days with just each other. giving them time to let go of some of those daily peripherals.  What made the belated honeymoon extra cool was they had rented a beach bungalow on a private beach. Being a native; this was cool to find out about. Camp Pendleton has a beach for the exclusive use of military members and their family and friend. Moreover, it’s really nice and very reasonably priced.  Next summer would be relaxing to have my brother come down and spend a weekend there. Maybe he can babysit the kids.

Here are the menus I specifically created those two nights.  As per usual, most of the ingredients are procured at local farmers markets and butcher shops.  Whatever looks in season, cute, ripe or glowingly fresh makes the menu. Review up on Yelp for this one :-)

The first menu

Asian caesar salad
Truffle, garlic parmesan and herb potato skins
Seared pork with French gnocchi, fava beans and squash blossoms
De-boned and stuffed chicken wing filled with sunchoke mash served over Black lentils and sherry butter sauce
Lamb stuffed carrots with purple snow peas and chermoula
Asian marinated skirt steak with chinese broccoli, caramelized shallots and pickled persian cucumber
Vanilla mascarpone stuffed strawberries with maple lemon glaze and honey tuile

A second menu

Finally, some pics below to go along with this menu.
Grand Cru Original crostinni with thyme, sherry gastrique red onion
Garlic, herb, parmesan and black truffle potato skins
Chicken fat hollandaise smothered roasted orange cauliflower
English pea soup with granny smith apple, soft boiled duck egg and togarashi tempura squash blossom
Honey roasted salmon with roasted pickled baby turnips, egg yolk gnocchi over lemon, truffle chicken broth
Sea bass ceviche with avocado and granny smith apple
Grilled ribeye, beef fat/thyme roasted carrots, chile/garlic/dark soy gai lan
Chocolate torte with roasted almond whipped cream and Justin port wine

cauliflower
pea soup
ceviche

Soup and Samich

Last spring we had one of those Sunday dinners that transcended what we knew of happiness and comfort.  It was a simple request and a simple dinner.  But like most things food–simple, done properly…is fekkin’ ridiculous.

What does “properly” mean? It means care and attention.  You can still be attentive and caring, while keeping it simple.  Simple just means not having too many steps or ingredients and no stressful time crunch.  The following recipe is for tomato soup and was adapted from one of Bobby Flays books over 15 years ago.  This was my first tomato soup and is still my favorite.  The sandwich can be anything you like; that memorable night was probably Gruyere or Manchego and serrano ham with sourdough.  Just make sure it has melted cheese and isn’t burned ;-)

Tomato Soup

10 roma tomatoes, halved and seeded
olive oil
salt
2T chopped garlic
½ onion, peeled and diced
1 carrot, peeled and diced
1tsp fresh chopped fresh thyme
at least 1qt. veggie broth
1c cream

Preheat oven to 325°. Toss the tomatoes with the olive oil, salt, pepper and garlic. Place on a sheet pan and roast for an hour. Heat a large sauté pot over medium high an add 1T of olive oil. Saute in the onion and carrots to cook until softened, stirring regularly. Add the thyme and sauté one minute more. Pour in the tomatoes and broth. Bring to a boil then turn down to a simmer for 10 minutes. Add the optional cream, and puree everything. Season to taste and strain through a chinois for a little unnecessary refinement.

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Sourdough with Jarlsberg and caramelized onion grilled cheese taking a dip in creamy tomato soup.

Your New Favorite Leafy Green

Chinese Broccoli, Chinese Kale or Gai-Lan.  These are the names you seek.  Now go…go forth into a new realm and feel all the pleasures that lie within.  For your journey has begun and your world will never be greener.  Lol.2014-02-01 15.03.24

I found this beautifully hearty version at the RSD farmers market and was shocked to hear what it was. In the past, I’ve seen it picked younger when it’s thinner and lighter in color, with long tender stalks like this.  Always at 99 Ranch, and it’s good, but it’s different then this stuff.  The healthy older cut is all about the leaves, not the stalk. It looks, cooks and eats like a cross between chard, kale and collard…without the unsavory characteristics of any of them. There was no extreme earthiness like chard, no excessive bitterness like collards and it’s more tender then kale.  The problem is, you either have to grow it yourself, or have a rad farmers market near you.

Broccoli is the next vegetable I will plant…I mean…my wife will plant; and thanks to teh interwebz,  seeds are never hard to find.

This can be sauteed into any dish, or, you can get creative like this.

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Beef and Broccoli

8 leaves Chinese Broccoli
salt
1lb ground beef
1 slice white bread
1/4c milk
1T dry sherry
1/2 T minced garlic
1T minced parsley
salt and pepper
flour
½c olive oil
1 large onion sliced
2T minced garlic
½ dry sherry
1-2 bay leaves
2c beef broth

Bring a medium pot of water to a boil. Throw in some salt and blanch the leaves for a minute. Remove and plunge into ice water to chill, then remove and flatten on towels. Blot the tops as well and set aside.
Mix the bread and milk until mushy with the sherry, garlic and parsley, then mix in the beef. Roll the mixture into 4-5 tubes and coat in flour. Heat the olive oil up in a large saute pan until hot. Brown the meat tubes on three-4 sides and remove. Add the onions to the pan to saute for a minute, or a long time to caramelize. Cook in the garlic for a minute with the bay leaf. Stir in the sherry and reduce by half. Add the beef broth and reduce by half. Meanwhile lay out the leaves over-lapping one halfway over another. Place a meat tube on top and roll like a burrito, then place in an oven dish. Repeat with the remaining product. When the sauce looks reduced and tasty, pour it over the wraps and bake for 15 minutes at 350°. Remove and serve with sour cream and potatoes.

Collagen, Gelatin and Fat, Oh My!

Another year and and another Super Bowl party.  This year we are starting a new tradition for Super Bowl.  From hence forth, Super Bowl Sunday will feature an earthly creature of unknown taste and texture.  To start off this soon-to-be tradition, I give you Suckling pig.

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This of course being my first time eating and preparing it, I wanted to taste the pig as true, simple and unadulterated as possible. I decided to roast it straight up with just some kosher salt in a 350 degree oven for 4 hours.  I made a couple mistakes but overall it went according to plan.  

It was decadently moist and the skin was crispy.  Texturally it was out of this friggin’ world.  Being a collagen, fat and gelatin freak, this was heaven.  The flavor wasn’t bad, it was just a bit boring. I thought it would taste mellower then adult pork, but it’s “milky” quality, was actually more pronounced then expected. But still a flavor no one could really put their finger on.  “I recognize I’m eating pork, but it’s different.”

Served with

We served it with an wonderful market salad and sticky rice. I’m glad I tasted it as is, now my mind is bursting with ideas to make it epic since the texture is so easy to achieve.  Next time I’ll brine and cook with aromatics, then add sweetness to the crispy skin.  It was a really cool experience though…I dove straight into the head.  Cheeks, ear, jowl, tongue, brain and snout. I wanted the parts of the animal that stores don’t carry. Everything was great except the brain. The sticky fatty texture was fine, but I can’t seem to enjoy anything tasting like offal…the irony, mineral quality is not something I’ve learned to enjoy :-|

Getting the thing

To procure said piglet, I wanted local but failed and found it online at Exotic Meat Markets. After hemming and hawing on the price ($160 + $35 shipping), I ordered it Monday, shipped on Thursday, arrived Friday and unbeknownst to me…sat on my porch for 3-4 hours :-( We cooked it before the game on Sunday so we were free to focus on the game. Of course that was a mistake as the game was a snoozer…unless you’re a Seahawk fan. Still, a great day with family, friends, food and football.

Our lovely complimentary salad
Our lovely complimentary salad

“Tangerine, Tangerine…

cake1 Living reflection, from a dream.”

This cake is indeed a dream come true.  I once again was a non-paying customer of McAnally Farm Organics–growers of premium citrus and avocado trees since 1975.  Tangerine season is upon us and although we’re just fine using them for juice, snacks and cocktails. Tangerines have found a new place in our home for this Tangerine Olive Oil Cake.

Quick back story:  I teach cooking classes with Big City Chefs.  One of their menus listed a tangerine olive oil cake.  I’ve made and had orange but never tangerine…so I made one. This is one of those recipes where your ingredients matter if you’re looking for ecstasy. Yes, Ralphs olive oil and tangerines will give you a cake.  But, if you want your eyes to roll to the back of your head, you’ll want farmers market tangerines and kind olive oil.  I can’t get enough of The Groves On 41 Arbequina Extra Virgin Olive Oil; it’s ridiculous.  They actually have a tangerine arbequina oil but I didn’t have any on hand when I did the recipe.  Speaking of the recipe, here ya go.

Tangerine, Olive Oil Cake

4 medium-large tangerines
1c sugar
1/3c crème fraîche or sour cream
3 large eggs
2/3c Arbequina olive oil
1¾c all-purpose flour
1tsp baking powder
¼tsp baking soda
½tsp salt

Pre-heat oven to 350º and position rack in the middle. Line a 9×5″ loaf pan with parchment or grease and flour it.
Zest 3 of the tangerines, then peel and chop all 4.  Set that aside and rub the zest and sugar together with your fingers until the sugar is evenly moistened, (I used a processor).  Add in the eggs and cream, blend and add the oil while the machine is running along with 1/3 cup of tangerine juice.
In a medium bowl, sift or whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt.
Whisk in the batter confidently but with as few strokes as possible. Fold in the chopped tangerine.
Pour the batter into the parchment-lined loaf pan, and bake until deeply golden on top and a tester comes out clean (i.e., sharp knife or toothpick or skewer) inserted into the center comes out clean, about 1 hour 15 minutes. Use the parchment to lift out the cake and let cool.  Serve with plain sweet cream or flavor the cream with praline, tangerine, raspberry or regular olive oil.  About 1T or more will work for 1 pint of cream.

Here are some pics to help you along :-)

Vegetables Are Good, But…

Damn I love steak.fresh steak

Recently we had some friends visit their family in New Mexico where grandpa raises cattle.  For shits ‘n giggles they decided to slaughter Jo Jo the cow.  I saw the video and don’t worry; Jo Jo never saw it coming.  Cows apparently don’t have the intelligence horses do, cause the horses knew what was up.  It was interesting to see them freak out a bit while the cow was all…”whut?”  So our dear friends came over for a wonderful dinner with slices of Jo Jo ready for the grill.  This is usually where I tell you how to grill a steak, but I already did that here.  No charcoal on hand so I just made a fire out of some pine I had from a neighbor tree we cut down last year.  In addition, the meal was capped with one of my favorite salads I like to call, Debbie’s Salad, here’s the recipe.

Romaine or spinach or both as the salad base then top with everything.
Canned sliced beets
Hard boiled eggs
Shredded cheese
Sun flower seeds
Cooked bacon
Cucumber
Homemade ranch dressing from the dry seasoning packet

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Farmers Market Mysteries

Linda Vista Farmers Market

Go to almost any farmers market and you’ll see something new and mysterious. For my dinner parties, I count on it.

Usually the vendor is the grower, or close to it, which is nice for any questions you might have. Asking questions is for me, part of the fun. Even if you get a bullshit answer, you still have a cool product in hand with enough info to find the correct answers.  They won’t deceive you about how it’s grown because It’s standard protocol for market organizers to visit the farms; ensuring responsible farming practices.  Just take cash and be adventurous with at least one thing.  Don’t worry about the nagging feeling in your head, that’s just your brain growing.

Building Community

brussels
These brussels were cute as shit. Most of ’em the size of a macadamia.

I usually drag the fam with me when I go; they love it and it feels good to support the community.  Not that it’s charity work or anything; I just want my community to support local food,  I want the idea of buying local as the standard, not the exception.

Once there, I blow through and gather my produce for that night, then we all sit for a bite of artisan something. Last time it was Papusa’s and empanadas.  Recently the Rancho location was rained out so we shuffled on over to the City Heights Market.  It was small, but as per usual, size doesn’t always matter. The smaller ones always have at least one vendor with something tweaky and rad.  

Feijoa

Like these lil’ dudes…known as Feijoa’s or Pineapple guava, or Guavasteen.  The lady told me they were called, Italian Guavas?  Whatever lady…I shall still purchase your tasty, exotic fruit.

feijoa
feijoa2

As feijoa’s go, these were tiny and overripe.  A good pruning of this evergreen bush would yield fruit the size and shape of a small avocado.  The taste is wonderfully sweet with pear, strawberry, banana and guava.  Usually only the clear gelatinous center is used, but the whole thing is edible. Just a bit tart and bitter as you hit the flesh and skin.  Quite addicting really, as you don’t eat the whole thing you can’t help but keep mowing them down.  Their a little tricky to tell when they are ripe or overripe as the outer skin doesn’t change color. They’re overripe when they have a browning center, not clear/opaque.

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Pumpkin

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What a charming word.  It’s the kind of word that feels good to say.  Place more emphasis on the second P and you’ll see what I’m getting at.  Kinda makes you grin doesn’t it…pump-kin.  Or are you more of the punkin’ type? 

What’s the deal with pumpkins?

Not my favorite vegetable, but this time of year I still have fun cooking it.  It’s grand…even the smaller sugar pumpkins have a dramatic look and notion to them.   I only cook fresh pumpkin for fun.  Canned pumpkin has a taste that is expected and rich.  Plus, it’s a helluva lot easier. I enjoy using it for bisque, bread, pie and as a sugar carrier, but I’ve never found the texture to be ideal.  As a raw product, it can be a little cumbersome to break down and it’s quite watery;  veering toward stringy instead of dense.   I realized about 7 years ago, that if I’m going to cook with pumpkin, it’ll come from a can…a Libby’s can.  I’m not sure exactly what they do to to remove water; meaning roast it then purée, or purée then reduce?  But they do a great job of obtaining a dense, rich product.  A product none of us will ever achieve or re-create.

A pumpkin of a different color

Libby’s uses a proprietary pumpkin known as a Dickinson pumpkin.  Dickinson is old school,  like Pilgrims and Indians old school.  It has a beige-matte exterior with  bright orange, dense, thick flesh and minimal seeds and strings.   Really more like a pumpkin shaped butternut rather then a classic ornamental.  Speaking of butternut…that’s my go to squash for all things squashy.  I enjoy Acorn and a couple others, but butternut is the squash king of texture and sweetness.

Here are a couple pumpkin recipes to play with.  One is a simple cobbler raw diced pumpkin, and the other is a Pumpkin pie recipe that you’ll not only love, but it’s easy and healthier then the classic.  Healthy as in low glycemic, not caloric count.

Pumpkin Pie

1 15oz can pumpkin
2eggs
1c whole milk
½c pure maple syrup
1T flour
1tsp cinnamon
½tsp ground ginger
pinch of salt

Preheat oven to 350°. Whisk Everything together, pour into a prepared crust and bake until just set, about 50 minutes. Let cool and serve with cream.

Pie Crust:
2 ¼c all-purpose flour
8oz salted butter, cold, cut into 1/4″ pieces
1/4-1/3c ice water

In a cold processor bowl, buzz the flour and butter until incorporated but still left with small butter chunks. Remove to a large bowl and drizzle in the water. Stir at first by holding and swirling the bowl to toss in the water. Then, quickly agitate/stir with finger tips to distribute water into the flour then pour the crumbly mess onto a couple pieces of plastic wrap. Wrap into a tight disk or ball and refrigerate for an hour. Remove the plastic wrap and roll out with a rolling pin using more flour to prevent sticking. Roll the finished dough around the rolling pin to easily transfer to the pie plate.

Pumpkin Cobbler

1 sugar pumpkin, cleaned, peeled and diced
2T butter
1tsp pumpkin pie spice, Trader Joe’s is better then Spice Islands
6T butter
½c milk
1c sugar
1c flour
1tsp. baking powder

Preheat oven to 350°. Heat a large oven proof pan over high heat until hot. Add the 2T butter and the pumpkin to cook and brown. Only add enough pumpkin to cover the bottom of the pan, not a pile. Once softened and browned, stir in the spice and the 6T of butter to melt.

Whisk together the sugar, flour and baking powder. Whisk in the milk; and pour the batter into the pan, starting with the edges, then all around. Bake for 45 minutes to an hour. Let cool and garnish with the pumpkin cream

Pumpkin Cream:
1T canned pumpkin
3T Maple syrup or sugar
1c heavy whipping cream

Whip until stiff peaks.

Your New Favorite Carb

Cookin' Dumplin's
Cookin’ Dumplin’s

In case you didn’t know, I teach cooking classes 2-3 times a week. Big City Chefs and I have teamed up for over 10 years putting on these classes all over California. They’re usually in multi-family communities such as Irvine Company; that have a centralized clubhouse with a nice kitchen for everyone to gather around. It’s fun. You sit, relax with a tasty beverage and watch me do my thing; all the while being able to ask questions, interact and sample the tasty tasties. One thing I’ve always enjoyed about the classes is the tidbits I learn from the residents. I learned this year that baking soda is a great everyday facial scrub :-| And more recently, at 4s Ranch, I was informed on what is now my new favorite recipe. Perogi dough!  Or Pierogi or pierogy or perogy or pierógi or pyrohy or pirogi or pyrogie or pyrogy or Pierożki.  As you can see, there are quite a few European claims to this dumpling.  I’ve made Perogi before and any peasant food like this will always have slight variations from family to family and region to region. What makes this particular recipe so exciting is it’s simplicity and versatility. Usually this dough has several ingredients. Egg, water, flour, salt, maybe sour cream…melted butter; which is all fine and dandy, but I know the way you think. You want a tiny ingredient list and a short explanation of preparation.  Boom.  You’re welcome. Now go cook some good shit.

Multipurpose Dough of Supreme Awesomeness

1c sour cream
2c flour

In a bowl, mix together by hand then knead for a minute or two. Wrap in plastic wrap for 30 minutes or longer, then use dough as you see fit. Remember that when shaping or rolling, you can use as much flour as needed to prevent any dough from sticking to your work surface.

Use like Italian pasta dough for noodles or ravioli.
Use as dumplings large and small for soups or sauces.
Roll flat and cut to use like a won-ton or pot-sticker wrapper
Make actual Perogi’s.

This doughs texture is really tender and just chewy enough; but the surprise tang from the sour cream is what brings this dough out of left field to slap you in the face with something different then the norm.  It tastes like a warm hug from a happy grandma.  I threw it in some chicken soup the other night with awesome sauce results.