An Old Wives Tale

Ahhhh, age old traditions of families passing down shitty information in the kitchen is an awesome part of human and culinary history.  From oil in pasta water to prevent sticking, to cutting off the root side of an onion to prevent crying; the answers we create when we don’t know the answer is a great exhibition in human creativity and stubborn naivety.   

Family food History

There is not a more common bond with our family and its history than the memories passed down through food; now if we can just get all the info right, we’ll be unstoppable!  I myself have preached completely false information, with all of the best intentions.  But food facts and culinary history are not always in written form, so we are often only as good as our sources.  

The test

Recently I did a little test to put a doosey to bed.  Being in Southern California we’re accustomed to avocados being a regular part of our diet, usually in the form of guacamole.  Ever since I can remember, it has been a common practice to place avocado seeds in finished guacamole to help prevent browning.  I have always called bullshit on this methodology, but it continues to pop up at parties.   So here is photographic proof of this old wives tale…plus a recipe for guacamole.

As you can see; after 48 hours and intermittent checking, there is no difference in oxidation between the two bowls.  Both also displayed the same depth of oxidation.  After 24 hours the guac was still green and ready for service.

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Lemon or lime juice…(citric acid), is not only a delicious flavor additive for guac, but it lowers the PH, making the oxidizing enzymatic bonds slow the #@*! down.  That gives you a few hours to bask in the bright green glory; but if you need it to last longer then that and past 24 hours, plastic wrap must be applied directly on top of said guacamole.  The browning does produce a bitter flavor, so if you did not add enough lemon or forgot to place the plastic wrap tightly over the top?  Scrape that brown off before service.

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4 medium to large avocados (Haas, Fuerte, Bacon and Reed are best)
3-4T fresh lemon juice
1/2tsp or more garlic salt or kosher or sea salt
1/4tsp or more fresh ground pepper

Mash everything together and add more salt and lemon juice to taste.
*This is the most basic recipe but it works. Always feel free to add one or all of the following to taste.
minced cilantro
fresh minced garlic
minced hot chile
chopped tomato
chopped onion
pico de gallo

And don’t forget fresh fried chips if you really want to blow minds.

South Carolina Style BBQ…in San Diego

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I, (like most with taste buds) love BBQ.  If my wife wasn’t so rad, I might’ve married it. (I looked into it..totally okay in Mississippi.)  BBQ comes in all shapes, flavors and sizes. Everyone tweeks their recipe just a little different than the next, as they should.  

So much variety from just a few basic principles. Season meat–smoke or slow-cook meat–dress meat (with something sweet and sour).  How you get those three rules done is up to you.

SC Gold

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Another regional wrinkle in the BBQ tradition is the mustard based style made popular in South Carolina.  The areas from Columbus to Charleston were settled by German immigrants. Maybe the Germans familiarity and love for mustard led to the regional style loved there today?  I dunno…seems logical enough, Germans do some crazy rad shit.  Here is a recipe that is versatile for any pork product or fatty meat.  The addition of the liquid smoke in the recipe is for those who can’t, or don’t smoke their meat. Similarly, the butter is for those that like a little cheat to their meat. It’s not needed, but it’s nice.

The Recipe

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2c prepared yellow mustard  
1c sugar
½c brown sugar
1½c cider vinegar
½c water
½tsp cayenne
2 tsp ground cumin
4 garlic cloves minced
4T minced onion
1tsp fresh black pepper
2tsp Worcestershire sauce
2tsp liquid smoke (Hickory)
2T butter (optional)

Simmer everything together for about twenty minutes over low heat; then whisk in the smoke and butter.  Season to taste with salt…I can’t remember if I added any because the meat is already salted from the spice rub.  Speaking of spice rub…

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2T kosher salt
1T sugar
1tsp paprika, pepper, cumin, thyme

Mix and liberally dust over your pork shoulder before baking or crock potting.   Always good to do this the night before, but if you didn’t. Just try to do it as soon as possible before baking, mine was 5 minutes :-|

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The Bounty of a Wine Pairing Dinner

Sunday was another wonderful wine pairing dinner that left 8 people very happy, a little full and perfectly faded. Those three ingredients always make for a memorable evening.

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I like requests

If you don’t know me or know how I roll; I use the San Diego farmers markets to guide my menus.  Most of my parties, (especially pairing dinners,) are driven by what is seasonally awesome.  I’ll get an idea of what you want–and don’t want, then I head off to the market and pick what is interesting and/or beautiful.  The host usually has a request regarding proteins; for this party, no red meat.  I actually love dietary requests because I enjoy narrowing my scope of thought.  Sometimes I get a little twitchy if I have too many options.  If you’re curious what I did, here is a synopsis.  Sorry I don’t have more pics, but the ones I took, don’t do the food justice.  Maybe I need to hire a photographer.

The Business

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The Cherry peppers were stuffed with a luscious onion bread pudding and roasted. Drizzled with praline olive oil.

The baby green tomatoes were kept whole, breaded with corn flour and ground panko, fried in peanut oil and served with sweet jalapeno remoulade. (cute as shit they were)

The corn was used for corn soup with crispy onions, oregano flowers and avocado that was pressed in sea salt and smoked paprika (Chardonnay)

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Baby turnips were braised in achiote butter with wilted spinach around pickled and seared Armenian cucumber, seared scallop and peeled white plum. (Pinot Noir)

The tomatoes were simply roasted and plated with ricotta gnocchi, sauteed shitakes and fresh thyme; topped with cinnamon and sugar broiled grouper and soy truffle broth. (Cabernet Sauvignon)

Strawberries were macerated with habanero over a fresh orange, vanilla biscuit filled with passion fruit crème fraiche. (Riesling)

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No chocolate sauce, the dark is the plate design

Thermo What?

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Hot soup.  How do you cool it down and why?  For those that don’t know why this has anything to do with anything—Soup or broth is a protein rich environment for bacteria to quickly propagate when the liquid is between 40 and 140 degrees.  So, cooling broth down for refrigerator storage should be done as quickly as possible.   To do that; the best way is to place your pot or bowl into an ice bath and stir regularly.  Ice bath = ice water in a plugged sink or ice water in a much larger pot or bowl.

Things being as they are, sometimes your choices for action are limited.  Some people might decide to place the hot broth in the refrigerator because, “that’s surely better then leaving it out at room temperature.”  The problem is not, whether or not the broth cools better in the fridge; but that the difference in heat reduction is miniscule, and does nothing more then condensate and heat your fridge.  I still have people ask me about this and sometimes it’s nice to know the whys along with the actions.  So if an ice bath is not an option for you, leave it on a cool dense surface and stir regularly to distribute heat and incorporate cool air.

Chia For The Win

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Chia seeds are tha bomb.  I was introduced to these little earthen miracles of nutritional density about 6 years ago, and am in fact drinking some right now–(with watered down OJ in case your were curious.)  Chias make sense to me; which is why I’m always shocked when people don’t appreciate them enough to eat them.  When I find foods that are little earthen miracles of nutritional density, I can’t help but get excited.  Like Christmas excited.  Like, “tax error in your favor” excited.

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Oh, the nutrients!

Chias are rich in protein, fiber, antioxidants, omega-3’s, glutamate, iron, calcium, magnesium, zinc, blah, blah, blah.  You’ve heard the “superfood” spiel before.  I really just enjoy their texture and their hydration support.  The nutritional advantages are gravy and just set my mind at ease with the knowledge that they are indeed a great nutritional supplement.  I really just enjoy drinking them.  Think tiny pearl-iced tea balls without the chew.  I find their texture when soaked to be a wonderful way to break up the monotony of hydrating.  I feel like I’m always drinking water but at the same time, am always thirsty :-|  Maybe I need a doctor…email me if you know a hydration specialist.

Texture not for you?

Not everyone enjoys the texture chias bring to liquid but marathoners use them as a slow drip hydration supplement.  If you’ve never seen ’em in action, chias are able to pull in and retain water like a gelatinous water filled bubble…I love the texture but have realized it’s not for everyone.   They can be used in recipes as a binding agent and can be sprinkled into food without any pre-soaking, but like I said I just drink em.  Buy online to save moulah but they do keep inching up the price.  I used to get them for $6lb…now they are $8-$10; here’s a source: http://www.getchia.com/

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Eggcellent!!!

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To me eggs are magic.  I know I’m not alone in this, but not much on our planet can keep up with eggs.  The combination of nutrition, sustenance, and pleasure I get from a perfectly cooked egg is hard to beat.  I just had an over easy egg with buttered toast this morning and it once again caught me off guard.  It’s a combo I’ve had countless times and it still makes me moan in disbelief.  I decided to write about eggs because I came across some pics I had of my new favorite pizza. 

Good and Weird

Then, (As I was scrolling the web for ideas on cooking with Corn Flakes) I came across an idea so devious…it had to be awesome.  Soft boiled egg with Corn Flakes and, wait for it…vanilla ice cream.  With my curiosity piqued, I needed to try this; so try it I did. 

It was pretty damn good.  Crunchy custard is how I’d describe it.  If you like custard or French vanilla ice cream then you’d enjoy this fun little ditty.  For guests; you can pre-cook, cool and peel your eggs, then bring em back up to heat with a minute and a half in hot water.  If I were to plate this for wow factor instead of private hom-nom food tasting, I’d scoop the vanilla then make an indention and place it back in the freezer for 10 minutes.  Then to plate on top of a pile of flakes and place the warm egg in the indentation, garnish with fancy salt.

You know chef hats right?  Le Toque Blanche?  Well, the ridges on chef toques had 101 ridges signifying the 101 preparations of an egg a chef should be able to execute.  There are many more ways then a hundred but the tradition stuck; at least that’s what I learned in  cooking school.   

Also…the aforementioned farmer’s pie?  Make it as soon as possible; here’s how it goes.

Farmers pizza:  Make pizza dough as you would normally for a personal pizza and use a 450° oven.  For toppings, scatter the ingredients listed below using the arugula liberally and as a nest for the egg in the middle.  This pizza is meant to cook about 12 minutes, so prep your crust accordingly.

Olive oil, chile flake, salt, caramelized onion, chèvre, arugula, one egg and a little cooked bacon as an added option. 

More Egg Ideas

Two new ideas to re-introduce you to the egg.  If you still struggle with classic morning preparations, don’t be scurred, here’s the low-down.

Soft boiled: place older eggs (fresh eggs are harder to peel) in a pot of boiling water for 6 minutes.  Remove to an ice bath until cool enough to peel.

Hard boiled:  Place eggs in a pot and cover with water.  Bring to a boil then cover and turn off heat and let it sit for 12 minutes.

Poached:  bring three inches of water to a boil in a medium sauce pot with a tsp of salt and 2tsp vinegar.  Lower heat to a simmer and gently crack the egg into

Scrambled:  Heat a skillet over medium heat until very hot.  Whisk the egg(s) with 1T (per egg) water, milk or cream .  Lightly coat the skillet with fat, pour in the egg, sprinkle with salt and gentle scrape from the bottom till desired doneness.

Shirred/baked:  Preheat oven to 350°.  Grease a ramekin, crack in an egg or two and bake for 15ish minutes.  Feel free to add a tablespoon of cream before baking and anything else you want to taste.  i.e. cheese, bacon, garlic onion…whatev’s.

Over easy:  My personal favorite; heat a skillet over medium heat until hot.  Coat the pan with fat, either lightly or liberally, then gently crack in the egg.  Season with salt and cook about one minute, then confidently flip and cook another minute or 30 seconds.

One last thing.  Some people are sensitive to cholesterol.  I get it, I feel for ya.  Eggs do contain a good amount of it.  If you don’t have any issues already then don’t worry about how much you are getting from a couple eggs.  Cook ’em in oilve oil and you’ll be good to go.  As another little side note:  Hopefully anyone with raised LDL levels re on some sort of HDL rich oil to bring your body into balance.  Remember that all fats are not equal and neither is all cholesterol.  Virgin coconut oil raises HDL levels quickly and easily; now go get yer egg on.

Guajes

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One of my posts from earlier in the month inspired this post.  I was doing a fresh tortilla class and thought these little guys would be great in a Mexican version of pesto.

What is it?

Guaje, (pronounced gwa-heh) are seeds (legumes really), from the Leucaena tree and they’re interesting enough to be tasty.  They are protein dense and taste like garlic, onion and pepita with a bit of raw starchiness.  I figured, omitting the nuts and garlic from the pesto for these might make for something new and wonderful.  

Laborious

I didn’t realize how to shuck em until I scoured teh interwebz and came across this lady at the 4:20 mark.  Look at her go on that thing…it’s a better video if you have in-fact tried shucking these lil’ bastards.  I was trying to do it like other bean pods; where-bye you pull away the fibrous string from the seam.  I was cutting that away, then prying open the pod with mixed results.  

Watching the lady in the video do it made me realize the method of splitting the pod equally from the tip.  (Use your fingers not your mouth like her.)  She was just doing it to show they are happily eaten as a snack…plus she knew her efficiency would blow that guys mind.  Still…it’s like picking herbs or peeling garlic…takes a little time that you often don’t feel like spending.  Don’t forget about delegation; utilize any opportunity for child slave labor or a drinking spouse or friend to help shuck.

Proper Method

To shuck properly, the pod should be ripped open at the end(tip), then peeled open with equal force on both sides.  It takes about 15-20 minutes to get 1/2c of seeds.  They can be used in anything and in any way.  Toasted, fried, roasted, raw, braised, boiled or steamed…do what you want.  All I’ve done is the pesto and thrown them raw into salsa, both with tasty results.  Look around your neighborhood and you’ll probably see a Leuceana tree, the pods are usually on trees in the month of May.  I’ve seen em my whole life…I just didn’t know I could eat em :-|

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Pesto

We all know it and we all love it, pesto is healthy and delicious. I recently made fresh spaghetti and fresh pesto with grilled chicken for 25 people.  I just wanted to serve something unctuous and simple with no stress…turned out perfect.  (Probably cause I grilled the chicken before I started drinking) :-|  

Birthday Pesto

During the party, I came to find out that pesto has a bit of mystery to it.  Since I’ve been cooking for 15 years it’s easy to forget what is common knowledge and what isn’t.  I thought pesto was so old school, that not only did everyone know how to make it…but they were probably bored with it as well.  As it turns out, most people don’t know how to make it, and absolutely no one is bored with it. Most everyone knew the basics of pesto but they usually forget one or two ingredients.  Which is normal with food and thats why we have recipes to fall back on.  So here is a basic pesto that you can use to wow your friends and impress your clients.  Fresh pasta will make it better…just sayin’.

2c packed basil leaves

1T toasted pine nuts

1-2 cloves garlic

4T grated parmesano reggiano

1c extra virgin olive oil

salt and pepper to taste

*pinch of fresh nutmeg and cayenne are very optional but quite nice

A couple ways to do this.  One way is to throw everything into a blender or food processor and purée…done.  However, if dark green/brown is not the color of your ideal pesto, another step is needed; blanching the greens.

Blanching

Bring a quart of water to a boil and add a couple teaspoons of salt, then prepare an ice bath (bowl of ice water).  Throw in the basil and optional spinach to cook for 20-30 seconds.  Strain off the water and quickly submerge the wilted greens into the ice bath.  Stir to dissipate the heat and let chill for a moment.  Strain away the ice water and wring out the greens of excess water.  This can be done with your bare hands or, by wrapping the greens in a towel.  This blanching step releases, then locks in the chlorophyll ensuring that your pesto keeps a vibrant green color.  Now make your your pesto as stated above.  It helps to minced the garlic first, or have it be the first thing you grind in the processor.

Other tips are to keep things cool; letting the nuts cool after toasting before use.  Purée everything except the greens first, then when any heat from the friction of grinding has cooled…purée in the greens.  Easy peasy.

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I can’t believe I ate the whole thing :-|

Spring Dinner

Spring is beautiful.  I realize this is not a new or brilliant observation, but I still had to state it.

Every turn of the season is exciting for chefs.  Enjoying food as the seasons guide you is a satisfying feeling and a healthy way to eat.  Comfortingly, it limits your options in a very natural way.  Recently we had family over for a spring dinner.  One of those nights where everything comes together. That always perfect combination of great food and great company. With a setting that doesn’t distract from either.

The Menu

All the veggies were obtained at the Rancho San Diego Farmers Market.

Radishes/Truffle butter/Brunoise pear/Himalayan salt/Chives

Delicious lobster bisque

Salad- Baby turnips/Grilled butternut squash/Peeled and blanched celery/Shaved parmesan/Gremolata-chimichurri

Roasted lamb shoulder with lamb gravy/Spaetzle and herbs/Chile garlic broccolini

Homemade caramel vanilla ice cream/Melt in your mouth apples/Raw Honey Crisp apple

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Kid Project

Cake pops are one of those hilarious food moments that makes people awesome.  

Because you KNOW, these were invented after a cake baking disaster.  That “Oh shit” moment in the kitchen.  We’ve all had it, no need to be ashamed.  We’ve all burned a grilled cheese before.  But holding it together enough to triumph over adversity and present something rad from disaster?  Well that’s a beautiful moment right there.  These cake pops are great fun with the kiddos and sure to provide that perfect little sugar rush that turns angels to demons…have fun!!!

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Recently I did a kids cooking class with this recipe.  The kids all had a great time and the recipe is a snap.

Cake Pops

Chocolate Cake, prepared (I used ½ of a 9×13 devils food box cake)
Chocolate Frosting (amount depends on moistness of cake. I used two big spoonfuls.)
2 boxes Premium white chocolate ( I used Baker’s brand)
cake pop sticks
sprinkles

1. Add already cooked and cooled cake to a large bowl.
2. Crumble until it resembles fine crumbs.
3. Add in frosting a little bit at a time until cake is moist and can hold a ball shape, yet still slightly crumbly.
4. Use your hands to incorporate the frosting into the cake crumbs.
5. Use a mini ice cream scoop and scoop out two balls of cake mixture.
6. Roll the mixture into a tight ball and place on a plate.
7. Repeat until all the cake mixture has been rolled into balls.
8. Melt 2-4 ounces of white chocolate in the microwave.
9. Dip the tip of the cake pop sticks into the white chocolate and insert into the cake balls about half-way.
10. Freeze for about 20 minutes.
11. Meanwhile prepare all of your decorating supplies.
12. Melt the remaining chocolate in a large cup. Make sure you have enough chocolate to completely submerge the cake ball.
13. Remove cake balls from freezer.
14. Dip cake balls carefully into the chocolate until covered.
15. Let the excess chocolate drip off. Swirl and tap gently if needed.
16. Add the sprinkles while the chocolate is still wet. It will harden quickly.
17. Stick the decorated cake pop into a Styrofoam block to finish setting.
18. Place into the freezer to speed up setting time.
19. Cover with a clear treat bag & ribbon for gift giving, if desired.
20. Store in a single layer, in an airtight container.
Enjoy!

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